Cheese trail · Anogeia, Crete
Anogeia and the Psiloritis Shepherd Country
Mount Psiloritis, the Ida range in the middle of Crete, is the island's shepherd country. Anogeia is its main village, and above it the Nida plateau is dotted with mitata, domed dry-stone huts where shepherds sheltered, milked and made cheese. To take part rather than look, book the Shepherd's Shelter at Krana, which runs milking and cheesemaking from April to October.
- Region
- Mylopotamos, Rethymno
- Hands-on cheesemaking
- April to October
- Highest point
- 2,456 m
- Base
- Anogeia
Why Psiloritis
Sheep and goats have grazed these slopes since antiquity, and the Region of Crete still points visitors to Anogeia for traditional mountain life. The animals feed on wild plants, which is what gives Cretan graviera, kefalotyri and mizithra their flavour. Most of the milk now goes to modern dairies, but in summer some shepherds still make cheese up on the mountain.
The Nida Plateau and Its Mitata
The road south from Anogeia climbs to the Nida plateau, below the summit of Psiloritis (2,456 m, marked by the chapel of Timios Stavros). The mitata here are round, domed huts built from dry stone alone. Shepherds used them as shelter, for milking goats and for making cheese. On the same trip you can see the Idaean Cave, linked in myth to the childhood of Zeus, the ruins of ancient Zominthos and the Skinakas observatory. Snow can last into late June on the high ground.
Where to Join In
- The Shepherd's Shelter, Krana: watch milking and help make graviera, myzithra and anthotyro, April to October, by request.
- Arkadianos Farm, Latzimas: a short farm visit with a cheese tasting, lower down towards Arkadi.
- O Topos tou Voskou (Shepherd's Land), about 1 km south-east of Anogeia on the road to Nida: a small park with a rebuilt mitato, a cheese store and a shepherd path, run by a local social co-operative. Opening times are not published, so call +30 6974 722311 first.
Festivals
Summer is festival season in these villages. Zoniana holds a shepherd and cheese festival each summer, usually in early August, with a giant kefalotyri cut in the square, and Geraki, south-east of Heraklion, held its cheese festival on 27 July 2026. See Crete's cheese festivals for dates.
Getting There and Around
Anogeia is an easy day trip by road from Heraklion or Rethymno. A car makes the area far easier, and it is the practical way up to the plateau. Several day tours from Heraklion and Rethymno combine Anogeia, the Sfendoni cave at Zoniana and a cheesemaking stop.
When to Go
April to October covers the cheesemaking season at the Shepherd's Shelter. Late spring brings flowers and fresh cheese; July and August bring the village festivals. In winter the plateau can be snowbound.
Where to Stay near Anogeia
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Next: 15 Aug 2027 (expected)Questions People Ask
What is a mitato in Crete?
A round, domed hut built of dry stone, used by shepherds on the mountains as a shelter and for milking and cheesemaking. Many survive on the Nida plateau above Anogeia.
Can you see cheese being made in Anogeia?
The surest way is to book the Shepherd's Shelter at Krana, a short drive west, which runs milking and cheesemaking from April to October.
How do you get to the Nida plateau?
By car, on the mountain road that climbs south from Anogeia.
Official site: incrediblecrete.gr/en/mountains/. Dates, hours and prices checked 22 October 2026; confirm on the official site before you travel. See all cheese trails.