Modiano and Kapani Markets, Thessaloniki

Modiano Market

Modiano was built between 1922 and 1930 to designs by the architect Eli Modiano, who studied in Paris, and it looks like one of the Paris covered markets. It runs between Vasileos Irakliou Street and Egnatia Avenue, with exits onto Ermou Street. According to the City of Thessaloniki, the produce, cheese, meat and fish shops are mainly on the street-facing sides, while the inside now holds tavernas, restaurants and bars, a good place to stop for meze after shopping.

Kapani (Agora Vlali)

Kapani takes its name from the Turkish Oun-Kapan, a flour and grain market, and the city calls it Thessaloniki's oldest open public market. Its lanes run between Aristotelous Square, the port, the Ladadika district and the old Jewish quarter, with stalls of produce, spices, olives, fish and meat, bakeries and old coffee shops.

Food Tours

Thessaloniki Day Trips runs a private gastro tour of 4 to 6 tasting stops, including Modiano, Kapani and cheese shops, from €90, 3 hours, starting at 10:30, for up to 6 guests. The same company sells a Cheese Odyssey add-on to its day trips outside the city, with tastings from local producers, from €30. Salty Soil's Thessaloniki Food Tour (€75 for adults, about 3.5 hours) also includes Kapani.

Tips

Come in the morning, and remember both markets are shut on Sundays. Athonos Square, close by, is known for its tavernas and tsipouro bars, and the Louloudadika flower market is next to Modiano.