Bandel

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Bandel is a fresh, salted cow's milk cheese from Bandel in eastern India, introduced by the Portuguese around 500 years ago. It is sold in small circular flats, plain or smoked, and known for its dry, crumbly body and smoky flavor.

Key Facts

Country of Origin India
Specific Origin Bandel, 25 miles north of Calcutta
Milk Type Cow's milk
Milk Treatment Acid separation
Rind Rindless; Pale brown coating (smoked variety)
Texture Crumbly
Flavor Mild and slightly salty
Aroma Strong
Colors Pale brown (smoked variety)
Forms Small disks, about 1 inch wide and 1 inch thick
Age Unripened
Rennet Type None; curds separated with lemon juice
Also Known As Bandal

What is Bandel Cheese?

Bandel cheese comes from Bandel, a former Portuguese colony in eastern India. The Portuguese introduced it, and the Mog (Burmese) made it under their supervision, giving the cheese roughly 500 years of history. Only a few artisans still make it, chiefly Palash Ghosh and his family, who work in a village near Arambagh in Hooghly District.

Production today is concentrated in Tarakeswar and Bishnupur, Bankura, near Kolkata, West Bengal. The curds are separated from the whey with lemon juice, then molded and drained in small baskets and smoked. The cheese is made in perforated pots, left unripened, and salted well enough to keep.

It goes to market in small circular flats straight after production. There are two versions, plain white and smoked brown. The texture is dry and crumbly, the flavor smoky and salty, and the smell is strong. The smoked version has the more intense notes of the two.

Anglo-Indian cooking in Kolkata uses it widely, while Bengali home kitchens hardly touch it. The plain version is eaten on its own. The smoked one tops pasta, risotto and salads, and both turn up in salad dressing. Cooks also deep fry it and serve it with gooseberry chutney, or scatter smoked Bandel over fig and almond tart.

In 2017 the Food Technology and Biochemical Engineering Department of Jadavpur University began a study of the cheese under Debabrata Bera, funded by the Government of West Bengal. The project covers hygienic production, training for the remaining makers, market potential, and a possible Geographical indication tag.

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