A Normandy Cheese Route

The Four Normandy AOP Cheeses

• Camembert de Normandie: a soft, white-rind cow's milk cheese from the 18th century, credited to Marie Harel. AOC in 1983, AOP in 1996. Its wooden box dates from 1890.
• Livarot: a washed-rind cheese with an orange crust, ringed with strips of sedge called laîches. Normandy Tourism suggests eating it from March to December.
• Pont-l'Évêque: a square washed-rind cheese of about 420 grams, mentioned since the Middle Ages, AOC in 1972 and AOP in 1996. It is at its best from May to September.
• Neufchâtel: a heart-shaped, white-rind cheese from the Pays de Bray, one of Normandy's oldest, AOC in 1969.

A Day in the Pays d'Auge

Morning: Camembert

Start early at the Maison du Camembert, which opens at 10am (9:30am in summer). Its visit runs through the windows of the Fromagerie de Beaumoncel, where Camembert is ladled by hand from Tuesday to Saturday, and ends with a tasting of three Camemberts.

Late Morning: Livarot

Drive north to Graindorge in Livarot. The galleries over the workshops are free, and so is the tasting of all four AOP cheeses. Outside July and August the dairy closes over lunch, so arrive before 1pm (12:30pm in winter).

Afternoon: Pont-l'Évêque

La Dégusterie, a cheese shop at 26 rue Saint-Michel in Pont-l'Évêque, runs 30 to 45 minute tastings of the four Normandy AOP cheeses, each paired with a cider from the Dupont house in Victot-Pontfol. Sessions are at 11am and 5:30pm at weekends, on public holidays and in school holidays, by booking. They cost €10 for adults and €5 for children from 12, who get apple juice. Pont-l'Évêque station is on the Paris to Deauville line.

Farmhouse Pont-l'Évêque

The Ferme de Montavigny at Cricqueville-en-Auge makes organic raw-milk Pont-l'Évêque and Pavé d'Auge from 60 Normande cows fed on grass and hay. Its farm shop sells them with other local produce; check the farm's website for hours.

When to Go

April to October, when the Maison du Camembert is open. Midweek is best: Graindorge moulds cheese Tuesday to Saturday and does not make cheese on Sundays, and the Camembert dairy is best seen on weekday mornings. In early May, add the Pont-l'Évêque cheese festival.

Getting Around

A car is easiest. Without one, Livarot is reached by train to Lisieux and Nomad bus 53, and Pont-l'Évêque by train from Paris.