Livarot Cheese

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Livarot Cheese

Coyau / Wikimedia Commons

Livarot is a strong-smelling, washed-rind cheese from Normandy. It is nicknamed "The Colonel" because of the five strips of raffia that encircle the cheese, similar to the stripes on a French army colonel's uniform. This cheese has a spicy, pungent taste with a soft, creamy texture and a reddish-orange rind.

What is Livarot Cheese?

Livarot is a washed-rind cow’s milk cheese originating from Normandy, France. It is distinguished by its cylindrical shape, measuring approximately 4.7 inches (12 centimeters) in diameter and 1 inch (3 centimeters) in height, with a sticky, orangey rind. The cheese has a chewy paste that melts in the mouth, offering a pungent animalian aroma and flavors reminiscent of onion, hay, and smoke. It is easily recognizable by the five plant fiber wrappings around its perimeter, earning it the nickname "the Colonel" due to their resemblance to service stripes.

Historical Background

The history of Livarot cheese dates back to the early eighteenth century, with references to cheeses from the village of Livarot appearing in historical records. By the nineteenth century, the advent of rail transport facilitated its distribution, making it Normandy’s best-selling cheese. Known as “the meat of the poor,” it was primarily consumed by the working class. Initially made with skimmed milk, Livarot cheese had a low fat content of 5–10 percent, but this increased to 30 percent by the 1930s and is now set at 40 percent.

Production Process

Production of Livarot cheese involves pasteurizing or thermizing the milk before adding rennet to form curds. The curds are then cut, molded, and left to drain for up to forty-eight hours, after which they are dry-salted or brined. During ripening, the cheese is washed at least three times in brine, sometimes containing annatto for color enhancement, and brushed to promote the growth of Brevibacterium linens on the rind. The cheese is then wrapped with strips of plant fiber, traditionally from cattail leaves, which help maintain its shape during maturation.

Regulations and Designations

Livarot cheese has been protected by an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) since 1975. Its production zone primarily covers the Pays d’Auge region in Normandy, centered around the town of Livarot. By 2017, regulations mandated that herds producing milk for Livarot must consist entirely of Normande breed cows, which graze for at least six months of the year.

Varieties and Formats

Livarot is available in various sizes, including Grand Livarot, Livarot, 3/4 Livarot, and Petit Livarot. Each format maintains the characteristic cylindrical shape with an orange rind and is wrapped in plant fiber strips. The cheese must be aged for at least twenty-one days before it can be sold.

Contemporary Production

Notable producers include Domaine Saint Hippolyte, Fromagerie de la Houssaye, Fromagerie Graindorge, and Société fromagère d’Orbec, which is owned by Lactalis and sells under the brand Lanquetot. These producers maintain traditional practices while meeting modern standards.

Tasting and Serving

Livarot is known for its strong, pungent aroma and full-bodied flavor. The cheese is best enjoyed within five days of delivery and is traditionally paired with robust accompaniments that can stand up to its intense character. Its smooth, spicy flavor makes it a gourmet delight in the French tradition.

Key Facts About Livarot Cheese

Country of Origin France
Specific Origin Normandy, Pays d’Auge
Certification AOC (1975)
Milk Type Cow’s milk
Milk Treatment Pasteurized or Thermized
Fat Content 40%
Rind Sticky, Orangey
Texture Chewy, Melts in the mouth
Flavor Pungent
Aroma Pungent Animalian
Colors Orangey
Forms Cylinder
Age 21 days
Rennet Type Animal