Époisses

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Photo of Époisses Cheese

Coyau / Wikimedia Commons

Époisses, a renowned soft cheese from Burgundy, France, traces its origins back to the 14th century. Recognized by AOC in 1991 and PDO in 1996, it's produced in two sizes and made exclusively from cow’s milk. Annually, about 1,400 tons are crafted, including a small percentage from raw milk.

The process of making Époisses has been passed down orally through generations, involving meticulous steps like slow milk coagulation, spontaneous draining, dry-salting, and aging in humid cellars. These cellars are essential, as the cheese is regularly washed with marc de Bourgogne, enhancing its distinctive flavor. Celebrated gastronome Brillat-Savarin once crowned it the “king of cheeses.”

After nearly vanishing post-World War II due to labor shortages on farms, Époisses was revived in the 1960s by farmers Robert and Simone Berthaut, who re-established its production based on traditional methods.

Today, Époisses is made using milk from local cow breeds like Brunes and Montbéliardes, which are fed non-GM fodder strictly from the designated area. This cheese is unique among PDO cheeses for its lactic curd washed-rind. In modern ripening rooms, conditions mimic the traditional cellars of northeast-facing farms in Auxois, where the cheese was originally matured.

Époisses has a natural color that varies from orange ivory to brick red, depending on age, and it undergoes a minimum maturation of twenty-eight days. During this period, it is hand-washed several times a week with water mixed progressively with marc de Bourgogne. The cheese is buttery yellow, soft and creamy, with a penetrating odor and flavors that range from subtle and fruity to rich with notes of undergrowth, walnut, and hazelnut, depending on its age. It is typically enjoyed with a glass of wine from central Loire, making for a sophisticated culinary experience.

Important Facts

Country of Origin France
Specific Origin Auxois and Terre Plaine, Burgundy
Certification PDO (1996), AOC (1991)
Milk Type Cow's Milk
Rind Washed-rind
Texture Soft and creamy
Flavor Subtle, fruity, distinctive, balanced
Aroma Undergrowth
Colors Orange ivory to brick red
Forms Small and large sizes
Age Minimum of 28 days

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