Herve

What is Herve Cheese?

Herve comes from the hilly land between the Vesdre and Meuse rivers near Liège, once the Duchy of Limburg. Cheesemakers there have produced it since the 15th century. Herve is now the European protected name, while the same style made in other regions is sold as Limburger.

It is a washed rind soft cheese made from raw cow's milk, sometimes flavored with herbs. Ripening takes place in cellars of the Herve countryside, some of them cut into the local chalky rock, and runs about three months. The taste deepens as it ripens.

The interior is pale yellow under a glossy reddish-brown coating left by the surface bacteria. In the first month the paste is firm and crumbly, close to feta. By six weeks the edges soften while the center stays firm, salty and chalky. At two months it turns creamy and much smoother, and by three months it gives off its notorious smell, the work of Brevibacterium linens. Young Herve tastes sweet. Older Herve turns spicy.

It is usually sold as a brick and was often counted among the most popular cheeses in Belgium. Once ripe it spreads. The classic sandwich puts a thick layer, more than 0.5 cm (0.2 inch), on firm 100% rye bread with a large slice of onion, served with strong black coffee or lager beer. Chunks or slices up to 1.5 cm (0.6 inch) work as well. Rinsing or removing the rind weakens the odor.