Queso Palmero

What is Queso Palmero?

Queso Palmero, also called queso de La Palma, comes from the island of La Palma in the Canary Islands. It is made from unpasteurised goat milk and holds Denomination of Origin protection. The goats graze freely on wild plants that grow all year round. Small farms all over the island make the cheese.

Milk is collected straight after milking and coagulated while still warm, at 27 to 33C (80 to 91 F), using natural rennet from goat kids. Coagulation takes about 45 minutes. The curd is cut into small grains so the whey drains, then moulded, pressed and left to drain further. Salting is done on the outside with dry sea salt gathered on the island.

Some cheese is sold fresh. The rest is smoked over local materials: almond shells, dried cactus or Canarian pine. Smoked wheels then mature in local caves or air-conditioned rooms, resting on plastic mesh that prints a grid of small squares onto the flat faces. Wheels are turned regularly and the rinds rubbed with olive oil or gofio for protection.

Wheels are cylindrical and run up to 15 kilos (33 lbs). Fresh cheese is soft and shiny white, with a very thin rind. Mature cheese is firm but elastic, ivory-white to pale cream, with a medium-thick rind ranging from pale beige-cream to light or medium brown depending on age and smoking method. It cuts cleanly, sometimes showing very small cavities spread evenly through the paste. The flavour is clean and clearly goat milk, slightly acidic and slightly salty, with only a faint smokiness in the smoked version.

Palmero is eaten thinly sliced and unprepared. It can also be grilled and served with the local mojo sauce.