Ragusano

Ragusano is a raw cow’s milk cheese made with natural animal rennet (lamb and/or kid). It is one of the oldest Sicilian cheeses, dating back to the sixteenth century, and has a rich history of commerce beyond the Kingdom of Sicily. Ragusano is produced in the entire province of Ragusa and the townships of Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, and Rosolini in the province of Siracusa. It received its PDO (protected designation of origin) status in 1996.

Production

Ragusano is made using traditional utensils. Milk from the Modicana breed is coagulated in a wooden vat (tina), and the curd is cut with a wooden staff (ruotula). The stretching process uses a small round container made of copper or wood (staccio) and a wooden staff (manuvedda). A wooden table (mastredda) is used for the final shaping of the cheese. The cheese is formed into rectangular blocks with rounded corners, and the rind is smooth, thin, and compact, turning from golden or straw-yellow to brownish as it ages. The cheese is sometimes brushed with olive oil. The interior is white, becoming straw-yellow with aging, and has a compact texture with widely spaced holes. Semi-aged Ragusano has a pleasant, sweet, and delicate taste, becoming savory and spicy with prolonged aging. Each block weighs between 22 and 35 pounds (10 to 16 kilograms). PDO-certified cheeses are marked with a distinctive “Ragusano” fire stamp on one side.

Characteristics

Ragusano is a firm pasta filata ('stretched-curd') cheese made with whole milk from cows of the Modicana breed, which are raised exclusively on fresh grass or hay in the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa. The cheese is produced in rectangular blocks and sold at different stages of aging. Fresh Ragusano, aged for up to two months, tastes sweet, pleasant, and delicate. Cheeses aged beyond six months develop a spicier flavor. The rind is smooth, thin, and yellowish-golden, deepening with age. A smoked version of Ragusano, called Ragusano Affumicato, is also available, with a designation stamp including the word “affumicato.” The cheese has a compact texture with a straw-colored pate and pairs well with full-bodied red wines and aged dark beers.

Historical Context

Ragusano, originally known as Caciocavallo, is one of the oldest cheeses in Sicily, with records dating back to the early 1500s. The cheese has historically been produced using milk from Modicana cows grazing on the diverse flora of the Ibleo pastures, which are rich in wildflowers and herbs. The cheese is tied with a rope in pairs and hung from beams during maturation, allowing air to circulate. The wheels are greased with a mixture of oil and vinegar during aging. Due to the rarity of the Modicana breed, milk from other cow breeds may be used, resulting in a cheese known as Cosacavaddu Rausanu.

Flavor and Serving Suggestions

Ragusano has a fruity, dry, and spicy taste, becoming more intense with age. It pairs well with bodied red wines and aged dark beers, as well as mustard, white watermelon, and orange blossom honey. The cheese is best enjoyed with wood-oven-baked bread.

Important Facts

Country of Origin	Italy
Specific Origin	Province of Ragusa and parts of the province of Siracusa
Certification	PDO (1996)
Milk Type	Cow's milk (Modicana breed)
Milk Treatment	Raw
Rind	Smooth, thin, and compact, golden or straw-yellow color, turns brownish with aging
Texture	Compact with widely spaced holes
Flavor	From pleasant, sweet, and piquant delicate to savory and spicy with aging
Colors	White to straw-yellow
Forms	Rectangular block with rounded corners, 22–35 pounds (10–16 kilograms)
Age	Semi-aged to prolonged aging
Rennet Type	Natural animal (lamb and/or kid)